What the rules actually are, city by city — and how to get more out of the days you are allowed.
Almost every city we serve buys its water wholesale from the North Texas Municipal Water District. NTMWD sets the conservation stage based on reservoir conditions and demand; each city then sets and enforces its own watering-day schedule on top of that.
Which means there is no single DFW watering schedule, and the rules where you live may not match the rules where you work. Moving one city over can change your allowed days entirely.
Two things are close to universal in this region, though. Most cities cap outdoor watering at two days a week, and most prohibit watering during the hottest part of the day — commonly between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. through the warm months. Restrictions tighten as the conservation stage rises.
Rules change with lake levels and with the season. The table below links straight to each city’s own page — that is the authority, not us.
Most cities publish their own schedule and conservation stage, and the links below go to the official page. A few of the smaller water suppliers publish nothing — where that is the case we say so rather than guess.
A starting point for an established lawn on clay soil. Your allowed days always win over this table — and so does the rain.
| Time of year | Typical frequency | What matters |
|---|---|---|
| December – February | Usually none | Cool-season dormancy. Water only during a long warm dry spell, and only when temperatures are above freezing. Systems should be winterized. |
| March | About every 7–10 days | Turf is waking up. Start light. Most March watering in North Texas is unnecessary because of spring rainfall. |
| April – May | Once, sometimes twice a week | Growth is fastest now and so is rainfall. Let the rain sensor do its job rather than running a fixed schedule. |
| June – August | Twice a week — the usual legal maximum | Peak demand. Aim for roughly one inch total per week including rainfall, split across your two allowed days, and split each day into cycles. |
| September | Twice a week, easing to once | Heat backs off through the month. Cutting to one day in late September is usually enough. |
| October | About once a week | Cooling down. This is when most people are still running summer times and paying for it. |
| November | Every 10–14 days, then stop | Taper off and book winterization before the first hard freeze. |
Blackland clay takes water in far more slowly than a sprinkler puts it out. A single long run mostly waters the street. Split the same total time into two or three short cycles with a gap between them, and the water actually goes into the ground.
Put a few straight-sided cans — a tuna tin is the classic — around a zone and run it for fifteen minutes. Measure the depth, and you know how long that zone needs to deliver a given amount. Zones almost never match each other.
Texas irrigation rules require new systems to have a rain or moisture shut-off device. Plenty of older systems have one that stopped working years ago, so the system waters cheerfully through a thunderstorm. It is a five-minute check.
Shrubs and turf want completely different amounts of water on completely different schedules. Converting beds to drip is usually the single largest reduction available on an older system, and the plants do better for it.
Turn off everything in the house that uses water, read the meter, wait two hours with nothing running, and read it again. If it moved, you have a leak on your side of the meter — and an irrigation mainline is one of the most common places for it to be. Send us a repair request and we will find it.
In midsummer, roughly one inch a week including rainfall. In spring and autumn, considerably less than most controllers are set to deliver. From December through February, an established lawn here generally needs none at all.
Early morning. Wind and evaporation are lowest, pressure is usually best, and the grass blades dry as the sun comes up. Evening watering leaves foliage wet overnight, which invites fungal problems.
Almost always coverage rather than duration — mismatched nozzles, worn heads, wrong spacing or low pressure. Adding minutes floods the healthy part of the lawn and still will not fix the stripe.
Before the first hard freeze — typically late November into December in this region, but the weather does not read calendars. Our winterization guide walks through the steps.
Hand watering and drip are treated differently from automatic sprinklers in most city ordinances, and new sod and new landscape often qualify for a temporary variance. Check your city’s page — the links are in the table above.
We diagnose coverage, pressure, valves and controllers across North Texas.
Tell us what the system is doing and where you are. We’ll follow up to discuss next steps.
Prefer to talk? Call (972) 240-8082, Monday to Friday, 8:00 AM to 5:00 PM.